Not Just Skin Deep

Droplet falling from dropper into glass bottle.

The popularity of cosmetic science is growing amongst current and prospective student pharmacists, and the reasons for its attractiveness are more than meets the eye.

By Maureen Thielemans

You can’t read a lifestyle blog or magazine today without seeing the buzz word: self-care. The term often conjures up images of makeup, haircare and the like, promising dramatic outcomes to improve your appearance or even well-being. Understanding the components of personal care items, such as the pharmacology of everything that goes into your shampoo, makeup or deodorant—and the synthesis of these items—is a science.

Academic Pharmacy Now spoke with Dr. Kavssery Ananthapadmanabhan, professor of pharmaceutical sciences, at the University of Cincinnati’s James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy about why cosmetic science is an attractive field and what career pathways exist for new or returning students.

What’s In a Name?

Cosmetic science is more than just makeup and facial cleansers, said Ananthapadmanabhan. A person’s skin, hair, scalp and oral hygiene are just some of the important components of the study of cosmetic science. Because of its ubiquitous presence in many of our day-to-day rituals, a common misconception about cosmetic science is that there’s not much new to learn about the field. However, advances in technology have led to better and more advanced products, which leads to further studies of their effects on patients. “We now have a lot more instrumentation so we can measure things directly on the skin, scalp or any other surface,” said Ananthapadmanabhan. “We can actually analyze products’ performance directly in people.”

Interest in personal care is surging, but why? The population is aging globally, noted Ananthapadmanabhan. Personal care companies often conduct research in adults ranging in ages from 18 to 65. Testing products on the skin of a 70 year-old, for example, isn’t common which means we aren’t as knowledgeable about the skin problems of aging individuals, he added. “It’s a new era and a lot more research is required.”

Older patients aren’t the only target group for personal care companies. Skin protection for children is also an important research focus as problems can develop at a young age and continue throughout their lives. “Research has shown that protecting the skin barrier and allowing the skin to develop actually can prevent future harm. With technology changing and an increased focus on key groups such as aging adults and young children, there’s a lot more interest in cosmetic science careers.”

Three whitecoat students in the lab.
UC students make a skin cream emulsion in the cosmetic science lab. Photo credit: Photo courtesy of the University of Cincinnati James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy

 

Something For Everyone

Cosmetic science is very multidisciplinary, Ananthapadmanabhan said, which means the University of Cincinnati’s cosmetic science program attracts all types of students. “Some may have a chemical engineering or biology background and have a desire to do more with their training. There are those who want to do traditional research in a Ph.D. track, or those who currently work in the industry and may have plateaued in their current position.”

Among the College of Pharmacy’s degree and certificate offerings is a traditional onsite Master of Science and Ph.D. degree, as well as an online M.S. and graduate certificate in cosmetic science, and a bachelor’s-master’s program.

Research has shown that protecting the skin barrier and allowing the skin to develop actually can prevent future harm. With technology changing and an increased focus on key groups such as aging adults and young children, there’s a lot more interest in cosmetic science careers.

Dr. Kavssery Ananthapadmanabhan

The compressed B.S.-M.S. (4+1) program allows students to complete two degrees in five years, an B.S. degree in Chemistry or Biology and an M.S. degree in Cosmetic Science. Undergraduates are introduced to cosmetic science subjects during their third and fourth years, while also completing internships with companies during the summer. That means they have some technical experience before beginning the master’s portion of coursework.

An online graduate certificate in cosmetic science is ideal for individuals who don’t want to complete a full master’s degree but are interested in learning more about skin care or formulation science, Ananthapadmanabhan said. For example, industry professionals who have been out of school for the last 10 or 15 years may want to earn a certificate first, then complete a master’s without having to take the GRE. “It offers ease for students and allows us to evaluate their academic performance in the certificate program.”

Whitecoat students posing for photo in a lab.
Cosmetic science is very multidisciplinary, Ananthapadmanabhan said, which means the University of Cincinnati’s cosmetic science program attracts all types of students. Some elect to do traditional research in a Ph.D. track while others may currently work in the industry and want to extend their education and training by joining the program. Photo credit: Photo courtesy of the University of Cincinnati James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy

 

A Bright Future

Career paths for cosmetic science graduates are varied and plentiful. Personal care industry giants, such as P&G, Johnson and Johnson and Unilever, attract graduates to their labs around the world. Another key group of employers are chemical companies, such as BASF, as they supply raw materials for skin care and have begun doing more research on products, Ananthapadmanabhan said.

Small, independent testing labs are also interested in cosmetic science graduates. They perform clinical testing for personal care or chemical companies, including performing measurements on skin and statistical analysis of data.

Ananthapadmanabhan added that some graduates are flexing their entrepreneurial muscles by starting their own personal care companies or small research firms. “The Internet has made it a lot of easier for marketing these types of things. People are getting into personalized cosmetics and it’s definitely an area that’s growing.”

Maureen Thielemans is director of communications at AACP.